January

The beginning of the year is the time to build woodenware, long before you put it to use. It’s much easier to do it now rather than scramble for gear when your package arrives or you capture a swarm. In many regions of the country, the bees stay in the hive in January except to go out for occasional cleansing flights (to defecate) on warm days.

January is kind of hands-off and no opening the hive. If there’s snow at the entrance, clear it off to make sure there’s ventilation.

 

February

Linda Tillman, a master beekeeper in Atlanta, says February is an important time to make sure the hive has enough honey. This is particularly true in the South, where the weather is milder and bees are more active instead of clustering to stay warm; however, northern bees also need adequate stores to maintain their hive temperature through cold spells.

Carefully lift an end of the hive to gauge the weight of the deeps (the two boxes that make up the main body of the hive). You want your hive to weigh at least 50 to 70 pounds at this time of year.

Honey is healthier for the bees than a sugar-based feed, as it contains all of the necessary enzymes and vitamins that the bees need. Retain frames of honey that can be given back to the hive as needed during the winter.

However, if you don’t have honey, you can use another type of feed. If hive feels light when lifting a corner or end of it, place fondant or a candyboard inside to feed the bees.

 

March

The month of March can surprise beekeepers because many bees starve during this time of the year.  Continually check the weight of your hive, and feed more honey if necessary.

Bees are moving and expending energy, make sure they’re fed. During this time, some northern beekeepers treat for mites before the nectar flow begins.

Beekeepers in the South focus on swarm prevention early in the month by checkerboarding—alternating empty brood frames and honeycomb above the brood chambers to create space for the bees or, rather, make them think that they have more space. In an untouched hive, the brood chamber containing the eggs and hatching larvae is located in the center, and checkerboarding spreads out this area. It doesn’t require additional honey; just move empty honeycomb (a frame with drawn-out wax) into the spot from which you removed a frame with brood on it.

 

April

By April, southern bee hives are moving full-steam ahead into honey-making. Add supers to provide room for nectar supply.

Beekeepers in cooler regions will experience a slower start during April. The bees begin bringing in pollen for the season, so it’s time for a thorough hive inspection.

Open up the hive on a warm day to see what’s going on.  Look at the condition of the comb, whether the queen is laying eggs and if the bees are bringing in pollen. This also is a good time to look for signs of hive pests and diseases.

 

May

May is the heyday for northern hives. Entrance should be a buzz.

When you open the hive, look for nectar and pollen stores, and make sure there’s a nice laying pattern in the brood chambers. Also keep an eye out for swarming behavior. Reverse boxes to make the bees think they have more space, and identifiy queen cells. Once area plants begin their nectar flow, you can place a super on the hive.

In the South, bees are busy during May. At this point, simply check your hive to ensure the queen is alive and busy laying eggs.

 

June

The weather is nice, and the bees are in full swing.  Check for a good laying pattern and a healthy queen. Add more supers if needed. 

Southern beekeepers can remove the supers and harvest their honey.

 

July

In northern states, beekeepers should be capping nectar in July.  

In the South, bees have finished producing honey, so it’s time to split the hive and create more to give the bees time to build up their own honey supply before winter. 

In the Appalachian region, July is the best time for beekeepers to add supers to their hives to gather sourwood-honey harvest. Other areas might take advantage of late-season nectar flows.

By now, you should be thinking about winter. Your bees are through with their work.  Prepping for winter entails combining weak hives, eliminating pests and watching honey stores.

 

August

Replacing the entrance reducer or robbing screen in August to give the bees a better chance to ward off thieving yellow jackets.  Otherwise leave the bees alone during this time. With no significant nectar flow, they become hungry and more active.

Make sure they have a good pollen store and check honey stores, too.

Complete all mite control.  Always do this before or after honey production to avoid chemical contamination. If you wish, you can place a drone-cell foundation frame in the hive for a chemical-free method of mite control.

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September

In northern states, beekeepers might experience a late-season nectar flow from goldenrod and wildflowers, but its acceptable to feed sugar syrup to ensure the bees build enough honey reserves for the winter.  

Make sure the hive has enough weight. A hive with two deeps and a medium super should weigh between 120 to 130 pounds.

 

October

In all regions, check your hives for pests and adequate honey reserves.  Using reserved honey stores works, as well.

 

November

Feeding continues as long as the bees can use the sugar syrup. Mouse guards and making sure the entrance reducer is attached at this time.

 

December

Get ready for the long, cold winter.  Stop treating for mites. Other than to remove the strips used to control mites, don’t open your hive.

At this time, enjoying my products of the hive,. It’s also a good time to read new beekeeping books and make a wish list of items such as a beekeeping suit, equipment or even a different subspecies of Honey bee for the next season.